The accelerated process of globalization and digitalization has posed both global homogenization and internal fragmentation challenges to national identity. Thus, national identity is expected to be rearticulated to cultivate a local resilience towards these trends. Since the formation of national identity requires a cultural construction and imagination (Anderson, 1983), it’s necessary to recognize cultural indicators for national identity construction and communication (Skinner & Kubacki, 2007). Cultural indicators as identity markers of national identity carry symbolic importance either as its signals, or can be mobilized by individuals for a self-identity claim (Bechhofer et al., 1999). Traditional cultural symbols are crucial identity markers. It’s not a new phenomenon that these symbols being branded as modern products’ cultural added values, or reproduced as cultural products, especially in the booming cultural industries to strengthen audiences’ sense of nationalist pride (Crawford, 2010).
However, this trend has brought up concerns about whether the national identity implications traditional cultural symbols carry have been reconceptualized in its reproduction and consumption, considering the cultural hybridity and cultural democratization facilitated by globalization and participatory internet. To respond to those concerns, this research focuses on China’s recent Hanfu (Han Chinese’s traditional daily attire embodying Chinese etiquette culture, whose history can date back to 11th BC) Craze.
The Hanfu revitalization initially emerged in the early 21st century in the fear that Chinese national culture would dissolve in modernization. However, it’s not until recent years that Hanfu becomes so popular that initiates a booming industry. The growth of Hanfu Craze is greatly contributed by its popularity on Chinese social media and video-sharing websites. Take Bilibili (a Chinese video-sharing website themed around animation, comic and game) for instance, there are thousands of Hanfu-related videos posted by its users covering various themes. The most welcoming video has been viewed about 5.17 million times and attracted over 18 thousand comments. To deconstruct the national identity reconceptualized during Hanfu Craze, following questions are answered:
- Who are the key actors in the reconceptualization of national identity in the Hanfu Craze?
- What kind of identities have these actors attached to Hanfu?
- How do differential identities interact with the national identity carried by Hanfu?
This paper begins with an overview of Hanfu Craze’s formation to grasp a wider context. Then based on content analysis of comments of Top 10 most viewed Hanfu videos and interpretation of video contents, ordinary fans’ and social media influencers’ respective identification of Hanfu have been explored. Moreover, expert interviews are conducted with 10 interviewees, including two Hanfu designers, three managers in Hanfu industry, and five scholars in culture and media studies. By deconstructing the reconceptualization of national identity during Hanfu Craze, further thinking has been given to how to incorporate traditional cultural symbols into a daily discourse and hybridize national identity with both the globalizing identities and individual’s self-representations. To conclude, strategic suggestions are proposed on the effective popularization of traditional culture and its mobilization for national identity demonstration in the globalizing and participatory society.
Key Words: national identity, Hanfu, cultural symbols, hybrid identity